The latest edition of this series offers personal insights into an exceptional polar expedition cruise by our Senior Polar Specialist James Townsend, who set sail with his partner on an epic 16-day journey with PONANT that took them from the southernmost point of South America to the Antarctic Peninsula, allowing for a full discovery of the most beautiful sites of these southern lands.
James in South Georgia
WHAT DESTINATIONS DID YOU VISIT?
I joined Ponant on their Great Austral Loop itinerary, which is a 16-day expedition to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia & Antarctica.
An elephant seal waves to the camera
HOW DID YOU GET THERE?
I flew direct from London Heathrow to Buenos Aires, where I checked in for an included overnight stay at the 5* Sofitel Recoleta. The next day all passengers flew together on a charter flight to Ushuaia (the southernmost point of Argentina), where we boarded our ship, L’Austral.
King penguin in South Georgia
FIRST TIME OR REPEAT TRIP?
This was my second voyage to Antarctica, but my first time visiting the Falklands & South Georgia. My first visit to Antarctica was in December; this time I went in November, which is one of the best times for wildlife in South Georgia. If you’re interested in witnessing epic mating rights battles between bull elephant seals, November is the time to visit!
Say cheese! James getting the elephant seal of approval
FAVOURITE LOCATION?
It has to be Gold Harbour in South Georgia. Surrounded by snow-capped peaks and glaciers, this beautiful bay has incredible, dramatic scenery, and the beach was absolutely packed with elephant seals and penguins! We visited in the evening as the sun was setting, which made for incredible photos.
A wide-eyed young seal
MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT?
The wildlife action at Gold Harbour! We witnessed an incredible brawl between two elephant seals, who traded blows and roared at one another while king penguins, dwarfed in comparison, tried not to get crushed in the chaos.
Two elephant seals battling it out!
PLAIN SAILING OR ANY SURPRISES?
In the early part of the voyage, we experienced pleasantly calm seas. Things were a little choppier between South Georgia & the Antarctic, but most passengers fared fine. The Drake was definitely more ‘shake’ than ‘lake’, although the crew told us it wasn’t more than a 4/10!
Sunset over the Antarctic
WHAT DO YOU MOST RECOMMEND PACKING OR PREPPING FOR?
If you’re a keen photographer, I would highly recommend a telephoto zoom lens. You can’t always get right up close to the wildlife, so this will deliver amazing shots. For the same reason, and if photography isn’t of interest, it’s worth investing in a good pair of binoculars. 8–10 x magnification work well.
Capturing penguins diving into ice using a long focal length
FAVOURITE FOOD AND DRINK ON YOUR TRIP?
One dish that sticks in my mind was a beautiful Asian-style seared tuna steak. But as a 5* operator, Ponant’s culinary offering is excellent. The menu was different every single day, and there’s a great range of wines – plus two onboard sommeliers if you need recommendations!
Wine rack options
FAVOURITE PHOTO YOU TOOK?
Of the king penguin colony at Fortuna Bay, South Georgia. To me, it captures the incredible organised chaos in which they live. Parents can find their chick amongst a crowd of 1,000 identical others, using nothing but a unique vocal call!
You will set sail from the fascinating city of Ushuaia, which the Argentinians call El fin del Mundo (the end of the world). First, you will chart a course for the Falkland Islands, whose wild beauty and lush moors are sure to captivate you, before heading to South Georgia, its impressive glaciers and black-sand beaches await, where large colonies of king penguins have taken up residence.
You will then sail to the White Continent, a realm of the unexpected. Weather and ice conditions permitting, this extreme environment will reveal to you its most beautiful secrets through numerous discoveries.
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