Our senior polar specialist, Lucy, joined Jaakusaaq Sørensen, a Greenlandic Inuit guide from Tasiilaq, East Greenland, aboard Le Commandant Charcot during their 10-day expedition through the region. This fascinating way of life shows Jaakusaaq discussing the local community’s role in encountering polar bears and whales, the cultural differences between his community and the wider world, and the challenges of living and working in a changeable and challenging environment.
Jaakusaaq all smiles in Greenland
Lucy: What attracted you to work in this part of the world within this role with PONANT?
Jaakusaaq: Well, firstly, I did not look for this work. The work found me. The company PONANT telephoned the Tourism Office in Tasiilaq. The Tourism Office contacted me by phone and asked if I wanted to work on a tourist ship. Since she said I would be working as an Inuit representative, it would be perfect because I have an extensive knowledge of the stories we have. And our culture is very much ingrained into my memory and my way of being.
Jaakusaaq giving a language lecture
What’s a typical day like for you? How does your day start?
I usually eat breakfast with the crew and then have coffee with my colleagues. We have already been sent a plan over our messaging boards. In an operation like last year, we would go out on the ice and prepare the perimeter, creating the perimeter using some poles to show where the passengers will be safe. A preliminary team would assess the ice and determine whether or not it is thick enough and durable enough to hold as many guests as there might be coming. On these operations, I would either dig a hole or do some ice fishing. But other times, I would just be out talking with the guests for the most part. I would also possibly become a gunner to protect the perimeter, standing outside of the perimeter so as not to be disturbed by the guests because the job of a gunner is to ensure everyone’s safety.
Ice fishing in Greenland
Are you a qualified gunner, or are you working on your licence?
I am currently working on my licence. However, I do have more gun experience than some of the others due to my hunting background. I have learnt to handle a gun since I was 12 years old, which is a little late for Tasiilaq – most boys who learn to handle a gun would learn at eight years old. It is a very different culture.
Greenlandic Indigenous children and their pets
What is your favourite thing about your role or your job on board?
Well, that would be my culture. I do enjoy telling everyone about my culture a lot. Back home in Tasiilaq, I would usually do it for free for anyone who wished to listen. But if you can do something and get paid for it, you should, of course, get paid for it!
Jaakusaaq’s profile displayed during a ship lecture
What would you say is perhaps your most unusual or memorable moment you have experienced in your role?
Oh, that would have to be working with foreign cultures. People of a different nation. Having a different way of thinking and different ways of expressing themselves is surprising. My co-workers are the answer; experiencing how unused to guns they are, for example, really surprised me. I deemed it unusual that someone would not understand the inner workings of a tool meant for hunting or killing. For me, hunting and killing is just a natural part of my life. And something we in Tasiilaq, mostly all of us do. We all have a good understanding of life and death.
Lucy’s photo of a breaching whale from a zodiac
What would you say is your biggest challenge in this role? I am slightly guessing protecting guests from polar bears, but I am putting words into your mouth!
You would because the polar bears are usually not the problem! The bigger problems would be ice—ice that melts, ice that has turned unsafe for a short period of time right before our operations, and perhaps the biggest danger I faced would be—no, that was not me—that was the kayak guides. The kayak guides were getting closed in by a polynya [which is an area of open water surrounded by sea ice]. But I have not really faced anything I consider dangerous or difficult myself.
Lucy’s photo of cracks in the ice pack
What advice would you give to travellers coming to Greenland?
The first advice I would give them is to prepare for the season. Because if they come in summertime, in June and July, and they bring all the winter gear, they will be a very silly bunch! Seeing as the summer would be mostly snowless in most areas of Greenland. And we have very warm summers of perhaps 20 degrees. So, Greenland is not frozen over all the time, everywhere. I would also advise people to experience the culture. If you want a souvenir, go ahead and buy it. We also enjoy showing off our own culture. If you are offered to be shown something, I implore everyone to accept.
Lucy’s photo of a sunny day in Greenland
Well, the talks that you have done have been so interesting I could listen to you all day. It’s just fascinating learning about your culture and hearing your stories. On a more personal note, what is your favourite time of the year in Greenland?
Oh, that would be the cold winters of darkness. The frozen-over lands are just something special. I’ve never seen anything like it anywhere before. And I grew up with it. I enjoy it very much, standing in the darkness of a new moon and the cold winds biting at my fingers. There is a certain enjoyment being at one with the most hostile thing everyone else describes. I see it welcoming where everyone else calls it horrendous or terrifying.
The moon hanging low in the sky over Greenland
Being out on deck when we had the Northern Lights, that was just magical. It was a very special experience, so I can relate to that. Having that sort of solitude and nature around you is quite a special time.
Yes. Nature has always been around me. My life revolves around nature itself. I live within nature and of nature. I live off of what nature gives me. I am a hunter, after all. I am not licenced to kill bears and whales, but I do assist the hunters who are.
Lucy’s photo of a polar bear on the ice pack
Do you have any interesting stories that you would like to share?
If I were to talk about the many stories I have, we would sadly be stuck here for the rest of the trip and perhaps the next trip over! But it’s interesting to meet someone from a different culture who has never met someone so proud as I am to hunt. Perhaps a vegetarian or a vegan. The reactions are hilarious to me, but their reasoning for turning vegan is valid. I accept their way of living as long as they accept mine. There is no wrong way to live. There are only more different and more challenging ways to live.
An Inuit hunter with a spear on the Arctic ice
Do you have many vegetarians in Tasiilaq?
Surprisingly, we do get a few a year. But many of them do turn to omnivores instead of being vegetarian, just due to the fact of how expensive it is to be a vegetarian or a vegan within the northern communities.
Is there anything else about Greenland that you want to add?
We are a proud people who live in Greenland. We are proud of who we are. And we will likely not change much over the next 100 years, perhaps. So, do come around and meet us. There are only 50,000 of us here.
Jaakusaaq on an expedition
Hopefully, we can send more people to experience the Inuit culture and learn more about your country.
Well, I would be delighted to tell everyone that comes!
Colourful houses of Greenland
Ready to start planning your trip on an incredible Greenland expedition cruise?Simply complete our enquiry form to get in touch, or call our Polar Specialists on 020 3666 1033.
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